KH 348: 3D Printer Troubleshooting

Let's Get Jiggy with some Printer Tips!
Adjusting the bed (multiple times using a spacing card.)
FIXING the bed (possibly needs to be done on Patrick's printer)
Hairspray
Alcohol cleaning
The Micro Swiss MK10 All-Metal Hotend Conversion Kit
The factory hot-end is actually PLASTIC lined -- This means you get much less stable temps
With a metal hot end, you get more consistent melt
You can extrude faster (you're not losing as much of the heat)
You don't get filament "retraction" which can really mess up layersUses a "Thermal Barrier" -- By using two different metals (stainless steel and aluminum) you can keep heat in the lower portion, and conduct heat away in the upper portion.

Andy Say
- 3D Printer Thoughts
"I am sure there have many discussions about 3D printers here. But I am tossing between two printers and looking to get some input from the group.
The first printer is the LulzBot Mini 3D Printer. My local Microcenter has them in stock at $1,199. The second printer is the Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer for $699 (of course kicking myself as I missed when it was on sale about a month ago for $549, and none of their codes work for 3D printers!).
Anyway, for the price difference, is there really a much of a difference?"
The LulzBot Mini
Heated Borosilicate Glass Bed
152 x 152 x 158
275mm/sec (at 0.18 height)
ABS, PLA, HIPS, PVA, Wood, Polyester, PETT, bronze & copper, Polycarb, Nylon, PETG, conductive PLA/ABS, UV, PCTPE
1 Yr Warranty
Monoprice Maker Ultimate
Heated Bed (Metal with build tape)
200 x 200 x 175
150mm/sec
Same layout of filaments
1 Yr Warranty
Hosts: Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ and Patrick Delahanty
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